K2 igomo riri muHimalaya system, kunyanya mumakomo eKarakoram, zvichiratidza muganho pakati pePakistan nePeople's Republic of China. Iyo ine hurefu hwemamita 8.611 pamusoro pegungwa, izvo zvinopa iyo zita rechipiri gomo rakakwirira kwazvo pasirese.
Iri munzvimbo yeAsia kondinendi, kumaodzanyemba kwePakistan uye kuchamhembe kwePeople's Republic of China, ichimaka muganho. Kunyangwe India ichiti dunhu nechikonzero chekuti k2 gomo inowanikwa zvachose munharaunda yayo.
Rwizi runokwira kupfuura 2 km pamusoro pegungwa, rinosara mamita 8 chete pamusoro pegungwa. Gomo refu-soro pasirese, akadaro rekodhi, inobatwa nekumanikidza Gomo Everest 8.848 metres pamusoro pegungwa. Iinewo mwero wepamusoro wekukundikana, izvo zvaita kuti rive rimwe remakomo akaoma zvikuru kukwira.
zita
Iro zita rakaburitsa kupenga uye kukakavara kubva pakusikwa kwaro muna 1856, sezvo vanhu vazhinji vachifunga kuti ndiye aive mutungamiri weboka repamusoro-soro (Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen) kuti mukuferefeta kwekutanga kwekarakorum akabhabhatidza gomo. Asi aitove nhengo yechikwata cheBritish.
Thomas George Montgomerie paakaona nhongonya dzemakomo, akaadhirowa, achidana ekutanga kuti ¨k1¨ uye ¨k2¨, nepo mamwe akagamuchira zita rokuti ¨k3¨, ¨k4¨ uye ¨k5¨. Nguva pfupi yapfuura, zvakaonekwa kuti K1 yaive nezita rekuti Masherbrum, saka zvakazivikanwawo kuti K2 yaive isina zita.
Zvaitendwa kuti k2 gomo Yakanga isina kana zita rekwakabva nekuti yaive yakaoma kuziva nezvehuvepo hwayo, sezvo yaingoonekwa kubva kunzvimbo yakaoma kuwana, senge Baltoro glacier. Gare gare mamwe nhongonya aizotumidzwa zita rekuti Broad Pea, nokudaro achibvisa mazita avo ekutanga.
Gomo iri, risina kana zita rekwakabva, zano rakamuka rekuritumidza mukuremekedza muongorori Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, seMount Godwin-Austen. Gare gare pfungwa iyi yaizorambwa neRoyal Geographical Society.
Nekudaro, zita raGodwin-Austen raizoshandiswa nekufamba kwemakore pamamepu mazhinji enzvimbo. Kunyange nanhasi ichiri kushandiswa kakawanda, nevagari venzvimbo uye vashanyi,
Topographical maficha egomo reK2
Chimwe chezvinhu zvinokatyamadza zvegomo reK2 kureba kwaro, iro nemamita 8611 rinoriisa sechipiri. gomo rakakwirira kwazvo pasirese, ichipfuudzwa chete neMount Everest, iyo ine urefu hwemamita 8.848.
Nekudaro, nyanzvi dzakawanda dzinoiisa munzvimbo nhamba 22, pakati pe Moutains kumusoro, vachipikisa kuti paki iri munzvimbo yakakwirira zvikuru. Iyi nzvimbo inoumbwawo nemakomo akati wandei, akadai seHimalaya (anosanganisira Mount Everest), nzvimbo yeTibetan neKarakoram.
Nzvimbo yaro iri pakondinendi yeAsia, pamuganhu pakati pePeople's Republic of China (kuchamhembe) nePakistan (kumaodzanyemba), kuchamhembe kwakadziva kumabvazuva kwegomo reKarakórum (iyi iri nzvimbo yayo yepamusoro-soro), ichiumba chikamu cheHimalayas. .
Chinhu chinonyanya kushamisa pamusoro pegomo iri pamwe rakasiyana raro rinenge rakakwana piramidhi chimiro uye nekusagadzikana kwaro. Rwizi runokwira kusvika kumamita anopfuura 2 (inenge) pamusoro pemipata yechando iri pazasi, padivi rayo repamusoro (kuchamhembe) anenge 3.000, nepo kune mamwe mativi ayo anokwira anenge 3.200 metres.
Mukuzara kwayo, ine nhongonya dzakafukidzwa nechando dzakakura uye dzinogara dzakatenuka uye dzakatenuka. Kumusoro kune gobvu rechando uye mazaya echando, ayo akawedzera kumamiriro ayo ekunze akanyanyisa anowedzera mikana yemafashamu emvura anowanzoitika munguva yechando.
Rwizi rune nzira dzakawanda dzekuenda kumusoro, neAbruzzo Spur uye Magic Line ndiyo inonyanya kuzivikanwa. Yokutanga ndiyo inonyanya kushandiswa uye yechipiri ingangoonekwa senzira ine ngozi zvikuru yemakomo pasi rose.
Mamiriro ekunze echando, kupinda kwakaoma, kureba uye materu akazara nematombo uye mazaya echando zvinoreva kuti kukwira kwako kumusoro kuzere netsaona dzingangoitika. Kuoma kwayo mukukwira nekudzika kwayo kwakaita kuti rive rimwe remakomo ane ngozi zvikuru pasi rose.
Pasinei nekureba kwayo, hazvigoneke kuiona kubva kune mamwe maguta munharaunda, nekuda kwenzvimbo yayo mumakomo. Iyo zvakare yakaoma kwazvo kuisvika, nekuti haina nzvimbo dzinosvikika nyore, sarudzo yakanakisa kusvika zvino iri kuburikidza neBaltoro Valley.
Nyika haina hupenyu hukuru hwechisikigo, nekuda kwemamiriro ayo akanyanya hazvigoneke kuti hupenyu hwemhuka nemaruva huitike. Pamusoro pepamusoro hazvigoneki kunyange kuona chero mhando yemiti kana shiri nekuda kwekushisa kwakadzika uye oksijeni shoma.
Zvinofanira kucherechedzwa kuti glacier ine zita raGodwin-Austen (mukukudza muongorori) iri padyo negomo K2 uye kubva ipapo une maonero akanaka emamwe makomo.
Nyanzvi dzakagumisa kuti K2 yakaumbwa makore anopfuura mamirioni makumi mana apfuura nekuda kwekudhumhana kwe40 tectonic plates (yeIndia neEurasian), ichi zvakare chigadzirwa chekuti Karakorum iri pamuganho wemaplateti ese ari maviri. kunyanya pamucheto weEurasian.
nhoroondo ye k2 gomo
Nezve nhoroondo yaro, zvinofungidzirwa kuti gomo reK2 rakashanyirwa neboka reChirungu topographical raiongorora makomo eKarakorum kekutanga, vachifunga nezvehunhu hunomira uye hunomira munzvimbo ine makomo.
Inogamuchira zita rekuti k2 nekuti ndiyo nhongonya yechipiri mukurongeka, pamwe nemamwe makomo ayo, achitevera kurongeka, akatumidzwa k1, k3, k4 uye k5. Vekupedzisira vakazopihwa rimwe zita.
Zvinonyatsozivikanwa kuti munyika umo ichi chisikwa chitubu chehukuru hukuru chiripo, chine mazita akasiyana zvichienderana nevatungamiriri venyika vanoiona sechikamu chenharaunda yayo.
MuPeople's Republic of China inodaidzwa zuva nezuva kuti Qogir (Chogori), iyo yaichengetwa sezita renzvimbo, zvisinei dhinominesheni iyi haina kushandiswa nenzira yakajairika.
Iro zita rakapihwa nemunyori wepamusoro weChirungu Thomas George Montgomerie kugomo richiri kushanda nanhasi pasina kupa chero rudzi rwekugadzirisa.
Muedzo wekutanga weAscent wakanyoreswa mugore ra1902, wakaitwa naOscar Eckstein naAleister Crowley avo vakatora danho rekukwira nekusimuka vakananga kumazaya echando anoratidza gomo iri.
Zvinocherechedzwa kuti hapana nhengo yechikwata yakakwanisa kusvika pamusangano uyu. Kwemakore, kuedza kwakawanda kwakaitwa nenzendo dzakasiyana siyana dzaitsvaga kusvika pamusoro pegomo reK2.
Muna 1909 pakaitwa rwendo rwakatungamirirwa naAmadeo de Bayona (Duke weAbruzzos), uyo akakwanisa kukwira kureba kwemamita 6.666. Kwenguva yainge yave shasha nekuti hapana aive akwanisa kusvika pakakwirira kudaro.
Tichifunga nezve budiriro yakaitwa nechikwata, zita rekuti "the spur of the Abruzzo" rakapihwa nzira yavakasarudza kusarudza yekukwira. Kuburikidza nechiitiko ichi, vakawanda vakakwira vakateverawo uye vakasarudza nzira inoshandiswa neAmadeo de Bayona.
Saka kuona kuti ndiyo yaive nzira inogoneka kuenda kumusoro. Nhasi, ine zita remuongorori iyeye uye ichiri nzira inonyanya kushandiswa nevakakwira pakuenda kumusangano.
Imwe yenzira dzakakurumbira dzekukwira murwizi iMagic Line (Magic Line), inozivikanwa kwete chaizvo nedanho rekupinda nyore, asi nekuomerwa kwairi kupa. Nzira iyo pasina mubvunzo yakauraya hupenyu hwakawanda hwevakwikwiri pavakafunga kutora nzira iyi.
Kwemakore, nzira iyi yave ichionekwa seimwe yenzira dzine ngozi zvikuru dzokukwira makomo pasi rose. Parizvino inoonekwa senzira ine ngozi kupfuura chero gomo pasi rose.
Murwendo rwakaitwa mugore ra1939 iyo k2 inowana vanhu vayo vekutanga, mazita avo Fritz Wissner, Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli naPasang Kitar vanofa panguva yekukwira paAbruzzo spur.
Rwendo urwu rwunokwanisa kukunda matambudziko akaomarara akapihwa negomo, kusvika pakakwirira mamita 8.300, ikava rwendo rwekutanga rwakanga rwuri mamita mashoma kusvika kumusoro.
Kwegore ra1953, pahupamhi hwemamita 7.800, boka rinotungamirirwa naCharles Houston riripo, vanomanikidzwa kusiya basa nekuda kwemamiriro ekunze akaipa asina kuvabvumira kufambira mberi.
Rimwe gore gare gare, musi waChikunguru 31, 1954, pamusoro pezvipingamupinyi zvose, vakwikwiri vaviri vakabva kurwendo rweItaly runonzi Lino Lacedelli naAnchille Compagnomi, vakawana chinangwa chaidiwa ndokusvika pamusoro.
Vakanga vari varume vaviri vekutanga kusvika pamusoro nekutsika pachidimbu chekupedzisira chechando chinovhara muromo weK2, uye nokudaro vakakunda gomo rechipiri pakakwirira panyika uye rimwe remakomo ane ngozi zvikuru.
Kutora chikamu kwakashata kwemuPakistani anonzi Hunza Mahdi kunorangarirwa, uyo aive nebasa rekupa mweya weokisijeni kuburikidza nemasilinda, izvo zvakabvumira kukwira kwerwendo rwekupfuura vakananga mukukunda kwekukunda kwepamusoro.
Kwegore ra1977, kechipiri feat inoitwa, murume anonzi Ashrasf Amman, mukwidza wePakistani, anokwanisa kusvika pamusoro achitevera nzira yeAbruzzo spur. Nzira itsva yakashandiswa pakukwira kweiyo itsva feat iri kurekodhwa.
Izvi zvakaita kuti rive kechitatu pasi rose richikundwa. Zvakaitwa nechikwata cheAmerica chinotungamirwa naJames Whittaker, anozivikanwa nekuve murume wekutanga wekuAmerica kukwira Everest. Ndiani akakwanisa kusvika kumusoro nekubudirira kwakakwana mukambani yaJohn Roskelley naRick Ridgeway. Kusvikira panguva iyoyo, pane zvakawanda zvakaedza nevakwikwiri veAmerica asi vakakundikana kusvika pamusangano.
Kwegore ra1979 rwendo rwunotungamirwa naReinhold Messner, rinokwanisa kuzadzisa izvo zvinoverengerwa seyechina feat. Chikwata ichi chakakwanisa kupinda munzvimbo ine rombo rakanaka, sezvo kusvika pari zvino pasati pava nenzendo dzakawanda dzasvika pamusoro.
Nzendo mbiri dzakatadza kushandisa mutsara weMashiripiti dzaive dzeBritish uye dzaitungamirwa naChris Bonington. Nekuda kweizvi, vazhinji vanokwira vakarasa nzira iyo senzira inobvira yekukwira.
Imwe nzendo kubva kuJapan yakabudirira kukwira nerutivi rwokumusoro rwegomo muna 1982, ichitungamirirwa naIso Shinkai naMasatsugo Konishi, vakakwanisa kusimudza vatatu venhengo dzavo kumusoro.
Naoe Sakashita Hiroshi Yoshino naYurkihiro Yanagisawa ndivo vakanga vari varume vatatu vekutanga verwendo urwu kusvika pamusoro, asi varume 3 vakanga vasara vechikwata vakakwanisa kukwira pamusoro pemusangano zuva raitevera.
Zvinosuruvarisa, panguva yekudzika, nhengo ye7-Japanese chikwata, Yukihiro Yanagisawa, akarasikirwa noupenyu hwake. Vachipedza kudai, 6 chete vanokwira kudzika.
Nzendo mbiri dzechiSpanish dzakaswederana dzichiedza kusvika pamusoro, dzakarekodhwa muna 1983 zvinosuwisa kuti dziri mbiri pasina budiriro. Kuneta nemamiriro asina kunaka zvakaita kuti nzendo dzirege kuedza kusvika pamusoro.
Gore ra1986 rakaunza manyawi emukurumbira, nekusvika kwezvikwata zvakawanda zvevafambi zvakatorwa moyo nekuoma kwekukunda musangano uye chinangwa chekuvhura nzira itsva. Vazhinji vanoedza nzira inokwanisika (iyo Abruzzo spur).
Chiitiko ichi chinounza semhedzisiro kuwanikwa kwenzira dzakawanda dzekukwira, zhinji dzadzo dzakaomarara uye hazvigoneke zvakanyanya, nekuda kweizvi, ivo havana kuwana mukurumbira wakawanda uye vanga vasiri ivo sarudzo huru kana tasvika pakukwira gomo.
Pakati pemafungu ekuzivikanwa, maSpanish maviri ekutanga akakwanisa kusvika kumusoro kuburikidza nespur uye Abrozzos akamira, mazita avo aive Mari Abrego naJosé María Casimiro. Avo vanokwanisa kukunda nyika kuburikidza neMashiripiti Line, nekudaro vachiwana, vachipesana nematambudziko ese nematambudziko akaunzwa nenzira, vanoratidza kuti zvaigoneka kusvika kumusangano nenzira iyoyo. Imwe nzendo inokwanisa kumira pachena yaive yeCzech-Polish.
Wanda Rutkiewicz naLiliane Barrard vanoitawo nhoroondo nekuva vakadzi vekutanga kusvika pamusoro pegomo. Mugore iroro vanhu makumi maviri nevanomwe vakakwanisa kusvika pamusoro pek27.
Asi muna 1986 hazvisi zvose zvaiva mufaro, kubudirira uye kupemberera. Gore rimwe chetero nhamba hurusa yengwavaira munyika inonyorwawo, kuwana chiverengero chinokatyamadza chavanokwira makomo 2 vamarudzi akasiana-siana vanorasikirwa noupenyu hwavo vachiedza kukurira gomo.
Gore ra1995 idambudziko zvakare sezvo kurasikirwa kunoverengeka kuchiverengerwawo. Pakati pavo, avo vevakwiri vemakomo Javier Olivar, Lorenzo Ortiz naJavier Escartín vakatanhamara, avo vakafira mukudzika pashure pokunge vasvika pamusoro somuuyo wokuchinja kwemhepo.
Mugore ra2004 kukwira kunoshamisa kweSpanish kuK2 kunoitika. Yakanga yakagadzirwa neCatalans Manel de la Matta, Jordi Corominas uye Oscar Cadiach, vakakwira kuburikidza neMashiripiti Line, nzira ine ngozi zvikuru.
Jordi Corominas anokwanisa kusvika kumusoro, apo vashandi vake vanokanda mapfumo pasi mushure mokunge vasvika mamita 8.300 nekuda kwekuneta uye kushayikwa kweokisijeni. Zvinosuruvarisa, nhengo yeCatalan team (Manel de la Matta) yakarasikirwa nehupenyu hwake ichidzika kumusasa wepasi.
Kubudirira kwegore kwakaunzawo Edurne Pasabán, uyo kunyangwe akange arasikirwa nezvigunwe zviviri nekuda kwekutonhora kwakanyanya, akakwanisa kuve mukadzi wechitanhatu kusvika pakakwirira. Aizobatanidzwawo naYuka Komatsu wekuJapan naNives Meroi wekuItaly.
Iyi ndiyo nzira iyo rondedzero yevakadzi 8 vakakwanisa kusvika pamusoro pegomo rechipiri rakakwirira pasi rose inopedzwa. Feat that kusvika ipapo inoramba iri imwe yebudiriro huru mumutambo wekukwira makomo.
Kusvikira gore iroro vanhu 246 chete ndivo vakanga vakwanisa kusvika pamusoro pegomo pano, 2 chete ndivo vakakwanisa kuzviita kuburikidza neMashiripiti Line. Ndichiri paMount Everest (kusvika panguva iyoyo) 4 vanokwira vakabudirira.
Tsaona dzinozivikanwa munyika
gomo k2 Yakave ichitariswa pamwe chete neAnnapurna, gomo rine njodzi kwazvo pasi rose, rinotsanangurwa saizvozvo nevazhinji vanokwira. Izvi zvakaratidzwa nehuwandu hwayo hwekukundikana kwakatora hupenyu hwevanhu vakawanda mumakore apfuura.
Matambudziko akanyanya ndeevafi gumi nevatatu vakatodomwa muna 13, umo maFrench Liliane naMaurice Barrad, Poles Dobroslawa Wolf, Woiciech naTadeusz Piotrowski vakamira. Iyo yekupedzisira yaizofa pakudzika, mushure mekukwira kumaodzanyemba kumeso naJerzy Kukuczka kekutanga.
Gore rimwe chetero, rufu rwakaitika rwakabata vakawanda vanokwira, asi zvikurukuru vokuItaly. Muongorori wemakore makumi matatu nemasere Renato Casarotto, mushure mekunge ayambuka mutsara weMashiripiti uye ari chete 38 metres kubva kumusoro, akaita izvo zvaive zvakatsetseka kudzika.
Asi achingova maminetsi angangoita makumi maviri kubva kumusasa wepasi, akawira mugomba rakadzika mamita makumi mana, kunyangwe akanunurwa, akafira mumaoko emumwe wake Gianni Calcagno nekuda kwekubuda ropa mukati.
Semutero, mutumbi wake wakavigwa mugomba rimwe chetero rakamupa rufu. Makore 17 gare gare, mutumbi wacho wakawanwa neboka rorwendo rwechiCatalan uri mumamiriro ezvinhu asina kusimba, ipapo wakaendeswa kuGilkey Memorial, nzvimbo uko kusvikira zvino vanhu vanorasikirwa noupenyu hwavo munyika vanonamatwa.
Musi waNyamavhuvhu 2, 2008, nhamo yaizoitika muk2 yaizoyeuchidza zvakaitika muna 1986, vaongorori gumi nemumwe vakarasikirwa nehupenyu hwavo nekuda kwemvura zhinji yaizovazvuzvurudza nekuvaviga pakudzika kwavo kumusasa.
manera nzira
Nhasi mativi ose egomo akatoongororwa, nokudaro kuwana nzira dzakasiyana-siyana dzokukwira, dzose dzine dambudziko guru mukukwira kumusangano, nzira idzi dzinova dzakaoma sezvo kufambira mberi kunoitwa nekuda kwemamiriro akanyanya muchikamu chepamusoro. zvenyika.
Migwagwa mikuru yekukwira inowanikwa pazviso zvese zverwizi ndeiyi: West Face, West Pillar, South Face, South West Pillar uye South-South West nzira. Kuve mbiru yeMaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero, kuMaodzanyemba kwakatarisana uye kuMaodzanyemba-maodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero nzira inonyanyozivikanwa nevakwiri vemakomo.
Mutsara weMashiripiti - Iyo Southwest Pillar
Rwendo rwekuPoland rwakaita mukwidza wekutanga nenzira iyi muna 1986. Rwendo urwu rwaizorasikirwa. Yakanga isiri kusvika 2004 kuti mukwiri wegomo Jordi Corominas akadzokorora chiitiko ichi. Iyi nzira inozivikanwa nedanho rayo rengozi uye kuoma kana uchikwira.
Iyo Abruzzo spur - Maodzanyemba-maodzanyemba akadziva kumadokero nzira
Iyi nzira ndiyo inonyanya kufarirwa nevakwiridzi, iri nzira yakapfava (mukuenzanisa) munyika, nzira iyi yakawana nhamba huru yebudiriro mukuedza kukwira. Zvisinei, ine nhamba yakati kuti yenjodzi.
Mutsara wePolish – South Face
Ndiyo imwe yenzira dzine njodzi mugomo, inonzi "nzira yekuzviuraya" nemukwiri wegomo wekuItaly Reinhold Messner. Muna 1986 2 Poles vakakwanisa kusvika pamusoro nenzira iyi, mumwe wavo (Tadeusz Piotrowski) aizorasikirwa nehupenyu hwake pakudzika.
Kumaodzanyemba kweGomo reK2
Iri divi hariwanzo shandiswa kana uchikwira, izvi zvinokonzerwa nekuwana kwayo kwakaoma, sezvo iine imwe ye Rivers mamwe makomo akaoma kuti ayambuke, zvinotorwa mukufunga kuti pamutsetse wekuchamhembe kazhinji haupfuuri nzendo mbiri. Iyi nzira iri pamhiri penzira inogaro gara vanhu vakawanda (Abruzzo spur).
Mafirimu enyika
Tichifunga nezvemukurumbira wakasarudzika unofananidzira gomo reK2, kusvika parizvino mafirimu mana akaitwa anoratidza hunhu hwayo uye nhanho yekuoma maererano nekukwira kwaro, Karakoram neHimalayas, K2 iyo bhaisikopo, The Summit and Limite vertical.
Iyo yekupedzisira ichiva iyo yakave nemigumisiro yakawanda, sezvo iri nyaya yaRobert King, umo kuedza kunoitwa kuratidza ngozi iyo vakwiri vemakomo vanoonekwa.