Matsutake (Tricholoma matsutake) is a fungus demanding: does not settle for an autumn undergrowth rich in leaves and humus, but prefers forests disturbed by man. It is a species capable of tolerating environmental disasters, it is no coincidence that it is said that it was the first form of life to appear after the explosion of the atomic bomb in Hiroshima in 1945. japan red pine (Pinus densiflora) is the most common host, also prefer the sunny soils and minerals left by deforestation caused by the man, but today the collection of this fungus is also expanding in the western regions of North America.
Reason that prompted the anthropologist Anna Lowenhaupt-Tsing to dedicate an entire and voluminous book to the matsutake entitled " The fungus at the end of the world. The possibility of living in the ruins of capitalism ” (Keller, 2021). In it are some observations that he was able to notice during his seven years of research in the field. A fundamental aspect of this fungus is that it has become, over time, in a very expensive global good for a very simple reason: it cannot be cultivated, but man can create the conditions for it to grow; this explains why we speak of disturbed environments.
Matsutake, the most precious mushroom
Matsutake Tricholoma it is actually a fairly common fungus in the world, which means that its habitat is in America, Europe and Asia. According to this theory it would be easy to find and market, and not expensive. But as we have seen, it is actuallye need very special conditions to grow, so if you see one, it may be years before you find another.
It is found mainly in the understory of dense forests, nourished by particularly moist soils. Very appreciated as food also by deer, squirrels and rabbits, to find a whole and suitable for the market you have to literally "nudge".
It is because of that the eastern markets, where the Tricholoma Matsutake fungus is highly appreciated -in cooking and medicine-, they value it at thousands of euros. He also has a "twin brother", the Tricholoma nauseosum not to be confused with the Matsutake. This difficulty is also part of the high price of its value. Finding, recognizing and collecting this fungus is not an easy task.
The best gift
Japanese tradition says that the mushroom is a good that once bought is given away, this means that an individual rarely decides to buy it for himself; matsutake therefore assumes the role of a gift: it is a global product with a strong cultural connotation.
The anthropologist's attention focused more on the link between the economy and the environment, in their ways of relating and in the working conditions of the matsutake hunters, most of whom are concentrated in Oregon. Although it is originally from Japan, it is in this American state where it grows in large numbers and it is precisely at this point that Tsing's anthropological analysis comes into play in which capitalism plays a fundamental role. The mushrooms, after being collected, become auctioned goods that, after being acquired by the so-called Buyers, pass into the hands of bulk carriers, who are responsible for assembling the mushrooms and preparing them for export to the East. Mushroom hunters live their lives in precarious conditions, many times they are veterans or undocumented immigrants, They are men who every day try to redeem their lives in the name of freedom., disregarding the dependent life of ordinary workers. What we mushroom hunters are immersed in is a very particular capitalism in which diversity and pollution are the protagonists.
Diversity and pollution
They all have stories of contamination behind their backs, but the human being often tends to forget about them, and it is thanks to them that the possibilities for the emergence of reciprocal worlds open up:
«The evolution of our 'egos' is already contaminated by stories of encounters; we are already mixed with others even before starting any new collaboration. Worse still, we find ourselves trapped in the projects that harm us the most. The diversity that allows us to collaborate arises from histories of extermination, imperialism, etc. Pollution produces diversity,” says anthropologist Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing.
Disturbance, a change in environmental conditions that causes further changes in an ecosystem, it can renew ecologies but also destroy them. The scale of the disturbances can certainly vary, but in any case it is a phenomenon to which the concept of damage is not necessarily associated; that of the matsutake is a story of anthropogenic disturbance that has generated ecological relationships.
The effects of industrial ruins about living beings can be different, gold mining for some species and disaster for others; in the middle we find the matsutake mushroom, capable of generating a world. What the American anthropologist would like to emphasize is the fact that:
“What counts is the uniqueness of interspecies encounters; that is why the world remains ecologically heterogeneous despite the power of globalization […] In the global power game, indeterminate encounters remain important».
Tricholoma Matsutake mushroom: what is it and where to find it
it's a fungus rare, delicious, so precious that it is used in minute quantities… a pinch, a few crumbs… in recipes for high kitchen.
Distinctive features:
matsutake mushrooms They are large and have an intense aroma. Matsutake are found everywhere in Finland near pine trees, in fact they can also be called pine mushrooms. The color of the hat varies from light brown to dark brown, almost like tar. The diameter of the hat is from 6 to 20 cm. Large dark brown velvety scales adhere to the surface of the cap. The stem is 5 to 20 cm long and 1,5 to 2,5 cm wide. Has a cylindrical in shape or slightly wider towards the bottom. The stem can be bent, extends deep into the ground and is firmly attached to the base. The gills are white and notched. In young specimens, the gills are covered by a protective veil that over time leaves a hairy ring around the top of the stem. Above the ring, the stem is white while below it has a brown design. The meat is firm and white and keeps well.
Similar species:
The key to recognizing matsutake mushrooms is their particularly strong, sweet, fruity aroma. a similar species Focal Tricholoma It has a light odor that resembles that of flour. Its stem tapers to the ground and is not as solidly attached to the base as that of the matsutake. the trichome Focal color is fox red to dark brown. It is smaller than matsutake mushrooms and is not edible.
Habitat:
It grows best at the foot of pine trees in sparse, mature forests with sandy soil with a thin layer of soil where lichens are also frequently found.
Harvest season:
The season begins in late July and continues through early October.
Use:
In some places it is not necessary to precook matsutake mushrooms before cooking them, but in almost all the countries where they are sold, they recommend and even require doing so. Moreover, to be considered fit to eat, it must be precooked. They can be served simmered, stewed, grilled, or in sauces and soups.
What is Tricholoma Matsutake used for?
In Japan, China and Korea, Matsutake is a delicious seasoning that all fancy restaurants display at least once. These mushrooms with broad, flat caps, usually striped brown, with long stems, must be pre-cooked before they are approved as edible.
Once the first treatment is over, they can be used in many different ways: grilled, stewed in soups, in the form of a sauce...
Chic restaurants use just a few crumbs, or a bit of zest, to give a strong and pungent taste to certain dishes. In the East, its benefits are also valued for medical compounds and disease treatments.
Tricholoma Matsutake, in fact, It helps metabolism and therefore makes you lose weight. It also has possible antitumor properties.. It reactivates the immune system in particular in case of inflammation and is used to combat burning or itching. Chinese medicine prepares it in the form of powders, ointments or other homeopathic products and is in great demand in the market.
Where to buy it and at what price
There are now dozens of different ways to buy this mushroom, including online. but it's always good distrust those who offer certain products, especially mushrooms, through the internet. It's best to head to an Asian, Chinese, or Indian grocery store, and get it through them.
Is better than check with the restaurants who use it. And if you like to travel and you can afford it, you can always go to China or Japan (especially the markets of Tokyo ), where you will find it for sure. But the price is really high, at certain times it can reach e Even exceed 1.000 dollars per kilo (about 890/900 euros). So you are already warned.