Isinxibo sohlobo lwesiGrike sibe yi- i-couture archetype oko kuhleli kwingcinga edibeneyo namhlanje. Sonke siqhelene neelokhwe "zesiGrike", kubandakanywa iimpahla eziphefumlelweyo zesiGrike kunye neembadada zamaRoma okanye isiGrike. Abaqulunqi abaninzi baphefumlelwe yile mpahla ekhethekileyo yendalo yabo kwaye inomtsalane kubaphulaphuli abaninzi. Enyanisweni, kukho izambatho zeengubo zomtshakazi eziphefumlelwe ngolu hlobo lukhethekileyo ngenxa yokulula kunye nobuhle.
Impahla yeGrisi yaMandulo yayikwixesha elidlulileyo kodwa nangona kunjalo ilifa layo liye lasinda. Ukuba ufuna ukwazi ngakumbi malunga ne iimpawu zempahla yeGrisi yaMandulo, kweli nqaku siza kuchaza yonke into malunga nembali yayo kunye neentlobo zeengubo zelo xesha.
Iimpawu eziqhelekileyo zempahla yamaGrike
Yindlela engaqhelekanga kakhulu yokunxiba ephawulwa ikakhulu yiyo ukulula kunye nokuguquguquka: Zazenziwe ekhaya ngendlela yasekhaya kunye neziqwenga zelinen enguxande okanye ilaphu loboya elimhlophe, elalisonga umzimba kwaye libanjwe ngemihombiso kunye nemibhinqo okanye iibhanti, ngoko ke zazimbalwa kakhulu okanye zingabikho. Amaxesha amaninzi la malaphu ayesetyenziselwa ezinye iinjongo - ezifana nezomandlalo - kwaye ayetshintshana phakathi kwamadoda nabafazi.
Izambatho ezisuka kweli xesha azizange ziphile ukuza kuthi ga ngoku kodwa iinkcazo zazo zihlala kwiiakhawunti ezahlukeneyo zangoku kwaye zimelwe kwinani lemisebenzi yobugcisa. Ngenxa yodwa kunye nobuhle bayo, kuyafaneleka ukukhankanya eyona nto iphambili iimpawu zempahla yeGrisi yaMandulo esisinika iinkcukacha ngezantsi:
- Uhlobo lwelaphu: Ilaphu elixande SEDA, ifilakisi kwaye ngaphezu kwako konke, lana
- umbala: ngokusisiseko mhlophe. Eminye imibala yayisetyenziswa kuphela kwiimeko ezithile.
- Ukwenza: ilula okanye ayicaci kakhulu, ngokusika okuncinci okanye i-seams. Maxa wambi zazidityaniswa emalaphuni imida yokuhombisa. Ekugqibeleni kwenziwa uyilo olucokisekileyo kunye nemibala eqaqambileyo.
- Ukuphuculwa: yenzelwe ekhaya.
- Usebenzisa: iinjongo ezininzi. Ilaphu elifanayo lingasetyenziselwa ukunxiba, ukwenza iidiapers okanye zokulala.
- iimpahla ze-unisex: iziqwenga zazihlala zitshintshana phakathi kwamadoda nabafazi.
- Inani lamaqhekeza: iziqwenga ezibini esongelwe emzimbeni, ingubo yangaphantsi (Thula o iipelepos) kunye nomaleko (isinxibo o iichlamyds). Ezo ziqwenga zimbini zijikeleze umzimba yayizimpahla eziphambili zelo xesha zamadoda nabafazi.
- Iintlobo zeengubo: kakhulu chiton, peplos, himation y iintsholongwane
- Izixhobo: amabhanti, amabhanti, ii-brooches, izikhonkwane zokuhombisa.
- Izihlangu: iimbadada, izicathulo ezikhanyayo, iibhutsi.
Iintlobo zeengubo zamaGrike
chiton
I-chiton okanye i-chiton yamaGrike yeyona nto ibalaseleyo kwiGrisi yamandulo. Eyona mpahla ixhaphakileyo ngelo xesha yayinxitywa ngamadoda nabafazi bawo nawuphi na ubudala nangabantwana.
Yinto nje a ingubo yokukhanya, ngokuqhelekileyo i-pleated, eyenziwe ngelinen enelinen ebanzi ye-rectangular cut. Le tunic yayigqunywe phezu komzimba kwaye iphakanyiswe emagxeni kunye neengalo ezingaphezulu kunye nothotho lwamaqhina. Ilaphu eligqithisiweyo lahlanganiswa esinqeni kunye ne-sash okanye ibhanti elibizwa ngokuba izowuni. Ukusabalalisa intsalela yelaphu eligqithisiweyo, ngamanye amaxesha ibhanti lalinxitywa okanye intambo ephothiweyo entanyeni, idlula phantsi kwamakhwapha kwaye iwele ngasemva ukuze ekugqibeleni ibophe kwindawo engaphambili.
Ngokuqhelekileyo le ngubo yayinde kwaye ifikelele emaqatheni, kodwa inokuba mfutshane xa ukusetyenziswa kwayo kujoliswe kwimisebenzi yomzamo womzimba, njengoko kwakunjalo kwiimbaleki, amaqhawe okanye amakhoboka. Yile ndlela i-chiton ihlupheke ngayo ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo iiyantlukwano:
- Las iingubo ezimfutshane okanye exomis babefana nabasebenzi okanye amakhoboka, betyhila lonke igxalaba nengalo yasekunene.
- La ingubo ende Yayiyinto eqhelekileyo kwizikhulu, iintanda-bulumko kwaye isetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo ngabasetyhini.
- Ekugqibeleni amadoda anganxiba i-chiton emfutshane ebizwa ngokuba yi-chiton chitonisk.
- Kwaye ekugqibeleni idiplois o i-chiton kabini ukuba yayiyeyona tunic inde kuzo zonke, inde kakhulu, ngendlela yokuba iphindwe kabini esinqeni ukuze ingarhuqeki phantsi.
Ngaphandle kokwahluka kwayo, kunokuthiwa kukho Iindidi ezimbini i-chiton ebalulekileyo:
- El doric chiton: “Ayinamikhono” ekubeni ukwenza imikhono kwakungekaphuhliswa. I-chiton yaseDoric inomgoqo ongaphezulu i-aptigma, ifakwe emagxeni kwaye iqinile esinqeni.
- El ionic chiton Ayinayo i-apoptigma, yenziwe ngelaphu elide kakhulu elisikwe uxande ukuze xa isongwe ngesiqingatha igqume umzimba wonke. Ngaphambi kokuba iipateni zemikhono zikhona, amaGrike abophe iingubo ngeekhonkco okanye i-fibulae ecaleni kweengalo ukuze adibanise imiphetho yelaphu ekuzameni "i-sleeve." I-chiton ye-Ionian, njenge-dorid, nayo ifakwe esinqeni.
Peplos
Ngumanduleli we himation kwaye iqulathe a Isiqwenga selaphu ekuqaleni sasinxitywe phezu kwe-chiton. Ilaphu elingasentla lasongwa laza lafakwa emagxeni omabini, lishiya ilaphu livuliwe kwelinye icala. Ngamanye amaxesha i-peplum yayinxitywa kuphela njengenye indlela ye-chiton. Umbhinqo okanye ibhanti lalisoloko lisetyenziselwa ukubamba imikhono esinqeni.
imfudumalo
I-imation yi-cape eyayisetyenziswa njenge ingubo yangaphandle phezu peplos okanye chiton. Yenziwe ngezinto ezinzima ezixande eziye zangena phantsi kwengalo yasekhohlo kwaye zikhuselekile ehlombe lasekunene. Ingubo yayibhijelwa emzimbeni ize ifakwe imitya egxalabeni lasekunene.
I-bulkier himations yayisetyenziswa xa kubanda kwaye ngamaxesha athile njengento yokugquma entloko ukuba umntu uzifumana ekwimeko ehlazo.
iintsholongwane
Yiyo isikwere okanye i-cape yoboya obuxande, ngaphandle kwe-seams, eyaphoswa phezu kwegxalaba lasekhohlo kwaye igxininiswe ngakwesokudla nge-brooch okanye iqhosha. Yayisetyenziselwa iinjongo zomkhosi okanye ukuzingela kwaye yayiyiyo impahla yomkhosi wamaGrike eqhelekileyo ukusuka kwi-XNUMX ukuya kwi-XNUMXrd kwinkulungwane ye-BC
ispani
Yayiyi iimpahla zeentsana, uhlobo lwebhanti oluzibhinqileyo. Ngokuqhelekileyo, abantwana babonakala beze kwimifanekiso yamaGrike ebonisa isini sabo, kodwa eAthene nakwezinye izixeko ezimbaxa (ngaphandle kwaseSparta) abantwana ababesancanciswa babebhijelwe ngelaphu elifana nombhinqo, besenza isambatho sabantwana belo xesha, i<em>srgana. Kuye kwacetyiswa ukuba esi siqwenga sisetyenziswe njengama-diapers kwaye ngokucacileyo, ngokutsho kukaPlato, abantwana babethelwe kwezi zambatho njengama-diapers ukunceda ukuphuhliswa okufanelekileyo kwemilenze yabo.
Iingubo zangaphantsi
Abasetyhini badla ngokunxiba into eyayiyi bra yelo xesha, i istrophion. Yayinelinen ebanzi okanye ibhanti yoboya eyayibhijela amabele kwaye ibotshelelwe ngasemva kumphakamo weencakuba zamagxa.
Ngendlela namhlanje eya kuba yibhulukhwe kunye neebhulukhwe, abasetyhini kunye namadoda banxibe amalaphu angama-triangular akhethiweyo. iperizome
Isinxibo sabasetyhini esifana necorset esiqhele ukunxitywa ngabafazi kwisiqithi saseKrete siye sachazwa. Ezi zambatho ngokuyinxenye zazixhasa amabele zaza zawaphakamisa, kangangokuba zaziqaqambisa inkanuko yesini. Esi sambatho singumzekelo kwi isitayile sothixokazi wenyoka, owayenxibe isambatho esicekethekileyo phezu kwempahla ephakamisa yaza yaveza amabele akhe ngendlela enokuthi namhlanje ibe yicorset yeleyisi. Kamva impucuko yasebenzisa izambatho zesitayela ukususela ekubeni amabele afumana ukubaluleka okukhethekileyo kwenkcubeko kunye nenkolo, ibe ngumqondiso wokuzala.
izixhobo zexesha
Ngenxa yokuthungwa kwayo okuncinci kunye nesitayile esithile, iimpahla zamaGrike zisebenzise izixhobo ezidweliswe ngezantsi:
Izixhobo
Njengoko sele sibonile, kwiGrisi yaMandulo, impahla yayingafane isikwe okanye ithungwe, oko kukuthi, ukuthunga kwakungekho ngqiqweni. Oku kunjalo, i-zippers kunye namaqhosha ayesoloko esetyenziselwa ukugcina iimpahla ezinamathele emzimbeni, ngokunjalo izikhonkwane y iibrowutshi (ekwabizwa ngokuba iifayibha). Ukuqinisa i-chiton okanye i-peplos kumagxa asetyenzisiweyo iibholiti enkulu. Kwaye umzimba wonke ngokwemfuno kunye nohlobo lwengubo, i amabhanti, amabhanti, iintambo neentambo njengoko sele sibonile kulo lonke ukhenketho lwempahla yamandulo yamaGrike.
Umhombiso
Zazisetyenziswa kakhulu kwiingubo zabasetyhini ezazihlala zihlotshiswe ngamancinci izihombiso zegolide ukuthunga okwakubengezela ngokuhamba kwelaphu. Kwakuyinto eqhelekileyo ukusetyenziswa ubucwebe kunye neenwele ezinqabileyo kunye ne-makeup.
I zihlangu
Abasetyhini kunye namadoda asetyenziswa rhoqo iimbadada, iziliphu, izihlangu ezithambileyo okanye iibhutsi. Ekhaya kwakuqhelekile ukuhamba unganxibanga zihlangu.
Ukwenza iimpahla zamaGrike
KwiGrisi yamandulo kwakwamkelwa eluntwini ukuba ukuveliswa kweempahla kunye nempahla umsebenzi ophambili wabasetyhini. Abo babevelisa amalaphu odidi oluphezulu nabo banandipha iwonga eliphezulu nelaziwayo ekuhlaleni.
Ukuveliswa kweendwangu kwakuyinkqubo ende kwaye inzima, eyenza ezi zambatho iziqwenga zexabiso eliphezulu kunye neendleko zoqoqosho.
Amalaphu enziwe ngawo isilika, ilinen kwaye ngakumbi nge lana. Ilaphu elifunyenweyo lalingafane lisikwe, singasathethi ke ngokuthungwa. Ezi ziqwenga zoxande, nge ukuthunga okuncinci kubandakanyeka, zazigquma umzimba ngeendlela ezahlukahlukeneyo eziphumela kwimpahla eqhelekileyo yempahla yamaGrike.
Ngaphandle kwamathandabuzo, sisandul’ ukubona uhambo oluhle lokutyhubela iGrisi yamandulo, imvelaphi yenkcubeko kunye nendawo yokuzalwa yentanda-bulumko. Ibali lakhe linika umdla njengempahla yakhe. Siyathemba ukuba uyonwabele kakhulu njengoko siye sahamba kule nkcubeko intle kunye nempahla yayo, njengenye njengoko ikhethekile, umfanekiso wefashoni olifa lakhe lisaphila namhlanje.