Trees are living beings that need great care to maintain their development in good condition. One of these cares is related to Tree Pruning, which is a task that for many can be complicated, however, it is not and you only have to follow a series of instructions. In this article, you will learn everything about this topic and more. Continue reading.
Tree pruning
The general rule to follow when trimming trees and other types of conifers such as shrubs is: "If you don't have a good reason to cut, don't." Most trees and shrubs are naturally shaped and can improve and look better if left alone. Each type of tree has its own characteristic shape or growth habit, and when pruning, you should try to maintain this habit. However, there are times when proper sizing and procedures need to be followed.
How can pruning affect trees?
When tree pruning is done in late winter and early spring, before growth begins, it reduces leaf production for the next year. However, it will require less water and nutrients as crown growth is reduced. In turn, close attention should also be paid to the strong root system below, which provides a reduced crown, which results in strong, succulent, fast-growing shoots.
This invigorating effect is present throughout the tree, but is especially visible on branches that have been pruned more severely. On the other hand, when pruning a branch, new shoots appear near the cut. New shoots usually grow in the same direction as the spiky shoots. Thus, a shoot inside a branch will grow toward the center of the tree, and a shoot facing outward will grow away from the center of the tree.
Why tree pruning should be done
The reasons for carrying out tree pruning are diverse, some of them are detailed below:
- When doing this during planting, immediately after transplanting, the crowns must be pruned to compensate for the loss of roots and begin to form the tree. This should not exceed one third of the total growth of the plant.
- In terms of training, to develop a strong structure to resist winds, a tree must be pruned back to a few strong branches well spaced above, below and around the trunk. Although if you want to provide shade with branches that protrude from the trunk at a height of more than 1,6-2,4 meters, it is necessary to prune the lower branches.
- Preferably, pruning should be done over a longer period of time as the tree grows larger. Doing everything at once can result in a thin, weak tree that requires effort. If you're going to prune everything at once, it's best to prune the lower branches to short stems. These stumps will eventually be removed.
- Given the state of health of the tree, it is good to know that it needs pruning to: remove weak branches that protrude from the trunk at sharp angles, by crossing branches or around the same place in the crown they compete to remove branches that have lost enough health to improve their appearance and prevent the entry of diseases and the spread of insects.
- It serves to revitalize older trees by pruning part of the tree's canopy, reducing the leaf area that the root system must deliver. Stronger growth results in the remaining branches. On the other hand, it also helps increase air circulation through the tree both to the benefit of the trees and to increase airflow in the landscape. This would mean that more sunlight passes through the tree, which is beneficial for the growth of grass underneath.
- Last but not least, dead, broken, weak, or low-hanging branches that may pose a hazard to people, vehicles, or buildings should be removed.
equipment for work
When pruning trees, it is necessary to keep in mind the use of good quality equipment, as this ensures an excellent final result. Good quality pruning tools make all the difference when trimming trees and shrubs. The usual thing that is used during this procedure is pruning shears, which can be manual or mounted on a pole, as well as the use of a hand saw for those large extremities.
Keep in mind that chainsaws are fast and efficient, but they don't make clean cuts, resulting in slow wound healing. Also, you should consider the types of shears, as a bypass is best for small branches and makes cleaner cuts than the anvil-action version. On the other hand, it is also good to note that tree pruning saws are compact and specially designed for intensive pruning in confined spaces.
Procedure in trees with deciduous leaves
In general, deciduous trees and shrubs should be pruned when they are dormant, preferably in early spring, just before growth begins. At this time, wound healing will begin almost immediately and will be faster. Idle pruning will have less effect on tree growth than pruning when the tree is actively growing. Another advantage of dormant pruning with deciduous trees is that it is easier to select which branches to remove when the leaves are exhausted.
Dead branches and branches that lack vigor can be pruned in mid-summer, when they are easier to spot. Exceptions to the dormant pruning rule are maple, birch, and elm, which should be pruned when actively grown in midsummer. When pruned in early spring, these species can lose excessive amounts of sap. Also, maple and birch pruning should also not be done too late in the fall, as wounds won't have a chance to heal until winter.
In contrast, species called elms should not be pruned between April 15 and August 30 to prevent the spread of Dutch elm disease. When pruning deciduous trees, make all cuts close and parallel to the trunk or crotch of the tree. Still, if you want to avoid damaging the main branch or trunk when cutting large branches, it is recommended that you use the 3-step method below:
- The first cut is made in the middle of the branch, a short distance from the trunk to which it is attached.
- A second cut is made from the top down, two to three inches away from the branch from the first cut. The weight of the branch will cause it to loosen and fall out without breaking the bark.
- The third and last cut is made close to the trunk so as not to leave a piece. When removing live or dead branches, avoid cutting callus tissue that has formed at the base of the branch. The tree will not be able to heal properly without this intact growing tissue.
Pruning process in evergreen trees
In this kind of vegetation, less pruning is required in most cases. For pruning purposes, two types of evergreen trees are recognized: those that produce their branches in whorls such as spruce, pine, and fir (conifers), and on the other hand, trees such as juniper and cedar that do not exhibit the whorl habit. Most of the trees in the first group are grown as single-trunk trees, which gives them a pyramidal shape.
In this case, removal of entire branches will leave gaps and will only need to be done if the branch is dead or diseased. On the other hand, the procedure used in these species or grouping of types of long-lived trees, should be limited to cutting back the new growth at the tips of the branches. When this pruning pattern is practiced annually, the result can be a noticeable increase in tree density.
Pinos
It is best to prune most pines in mid-June before they take on their traditional cone shape. At this time, the new growth appears light. It should be noted that the deadline depends on the year and may be different each year. When these terminal shoots are soft, they can be cut back to half or a third of their length. This governs the length of subsequent growth for that season. New terminal shoots will form at the cut ends at the end of the growing season and next year's growth will spread from these points.
Spruce and Firs
If you are trying to cut off shoot growth, spruce can be pruned by cutting the shoot sideways in early spring. Pruning should be done in mid-May and early June. Growth will continue from this bud throughout the season. Density pruning on these tree varieties is best done after the growing points are elongated. To control growth, prune back half of the new development in early spring, just as it has spread. This will increase the density of the trees.
Cedar and Juniper
In all types of trees that have a development that allows them to have a long life, with a smooth growth, such as junipers and cedars, certain series of cuts can be applied to the new shoots, preferably from the beginning of the season, it is say, mid-spring or June. Pruning the strongest branches once or twice a season will help keep the plant from growing or developing without destroying its natural appearance.
Damaged terminal branches
If a terminal spruce or pine branch is damaged in any way and needs to be removed, a lateral branch should be placed to replace it. A strong branch should be selected from the upper crown and carefully tied to a bar as a rail. Approximately 17 centimeters of the remaining crown branches should be cut to direct additional growth towards the new conductor. When two or more leaders are present, all but the strongest should be removed when the tree is relatively young.
Pruning to protect the field
Seat belt clipping is done for three main reasons. Dead, diseased, or storm-damaged branches are removed for safety, appearance, and disease control reasons. Second, branches that interfere with power lines, machine operation, or pose a threat to property must be removed. Finally, pruning is done to improve the appearance of the seat belt by removing suction and interfering or spreading branches.
Unlike shade trees, which are pruned to emphasize their shape, the lower branches of shelterbelts should only be removed if the density of the windbreak needs to be changed. The recommended time to prune is in winter or spring to reduce infection damage. In practice, however, it may be more convenient to prune in the height of summer, when the trees are full of leaves, to easily locate dead or weak branches.
The summer solstice is also an opportunity to cut down trees such as maple and birch. However, pruning should not be done in late fall, as wounds have no chance to heal before winter. Pruning of unhealthy branches can be done at any time of the year as it does not affect living tissue. When pruning, assess the tree before pruning to select the branches that will serve as the main structure of the tree. Make all cuts tight and parallel to the torso.
When pruning away diseased parts, remove at least 6 inches of signs of disease, which usually means going back to a live side branch or tree trunk. To avoid damaging the main branch or trunk when cutting large branches, the following is recommended: The first cut is made partially through the branch below, a short distance from the branch or trunk to which it is attached. It is then done from the top down, 2-3 inches above the branch. The weight of the branch causes it to loosen and fall out without breaking the bark.
Finally, it is done reasonably flush with the limb or torso to avoid leaving a piece. At the same time, it is important to avoid cutting your limbs or trunk. Leaving minimal surface area exposed can allow the cut to heal over time. On the other hand, it must be taken into account that when removing dead branches, care must be taken not to cut the callus tissue that has formed at the base of the branch in such a way that the living tissue is not exposed.
Make sure tools are in good condition to get clean, sharp cuts. When removing diseased material, tools should be disinfected in a Javex or alcohol solution between each cut. It's also good to know that dressing tree wounds is a controversial topic. While bandages protect against the ingress of water, disease, and insects, they also hinder the healing process.
When used, one of several commercial products is obtained. Don't use ordinary colors. Maintenance pruning should be done in such a way that the natural shape of the tree can be traced or restored while dead, diseased, broken and crossing branches are removed. Remove only what is necessary to maintain the seat belts fit at all levels. In no case should you remove more than 25 percent of the tree's production potential in one season.
Tree pruning to repair snow damage
Excessive amounts of snow and ice can damage all types of trees found. Unfortunately, before the storms arrive, little can be done to prevent the damage. However, with proper care, damaged trees can often be restored. Several tree species are generally more susceptible to ice and snow damage than others. Soft, brittle hardwoods such as Manitoba maple, Siberian elm, poplar, birch, and willow can be severely damaged by ice and snow.
Coniferous trees are not as prone to damage; however, low-growing, multi-stemmed evergreens, such as junipers, tend to crack or spread under the weight of snow. When there is a large amount of snow and ice on tree branches, several measures can be taken to prevent damage. Because ice sheets can add up to 40 times the weight of a branch, improper ice or snow removal often increases damage.
Ice-laden branches must be supported with suitable materials and prevent ice from falling off branches where it can break. Snow can be carefully removed if it does not freeze on the branches. Once damage has occurred, trees must be carefully examined to determine the extent of the damage. If the damage is not extensive and the tree is worth saving, proper pruning or repair of affected trees should be done.
The split crotch can be fastened and held in place by a cable running from the torso to the limb. To further strengthen the repair, screws with washers should be inserted through the gap area every six to eight inches along the gap. If ice and snow damage is common in your area, it may make sense to consider preventative pruning of good quality specimen trees. However, if you find branches with limbs that are weak or weakened by disease or insects, this type of pruning is necessary.
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